Climbing Croatia

Brela - Croatia

Description
A nice crag with impressive views over the islands Bra? and Hvar. Routes are long (50+m) on vertical walls and slabs requiring good foot work and a strong head. Routes are well set though watch out for the routes with old bolts.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
81
Grades:
4a-7c+
Angle:
vertical & slab
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Sept-Apr
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Brela
Longitude/Latitude:
16.8996/43.4193
Wildcamping
Stay overnight up high on the dirt track parallel to the coastal road down below. Lovely sunset views and quiet evenings.

Brsec - Croatia

Description
Surrounding the tiny, very quaint village of Brsec are several sea cliffs with 2 of 5 sectors directly above sea. Slightly chossy rock in places, quality not as good as expected considering how recently crag was equipped. Sea views, however, are amazing and area is quiet (few tourists) since sea can only be accessed by boat or climbing...
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
50
Grades:
5c-8a+
Angle:
vertical / overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Brsec
Longitude/Latitude:
14.241/45.185
Wildcamping
There's a car park just outside the village, along the main road towards Martina, which works well for overnight parking.

Dabarski Kukovi - Croatia

Description
Set in the Croatian wilderness on the mountainsides above Karlobag, and bordering on Velebit National Park, are a handful of impressive pinnacled ridges with lots of bolted multipitch routes on them. When you reach the mountain pass Dabarska Kosa, you'll see white towers emerging from dense evergreen forests like the backbone of a dragon asleep on the valley floor. These are the first three, largest sector with a further four down the valley. Due to its wild location, rock quality is superb. Those who enjoy solid slab/vertical wall climbing on flakes, cracks and small pockets are in for a treat.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
47
Grades:
4b-7a+
Angle:
slab & vertical
Climbing:
trad climbing (bolted belay stands)
Best time to visit:
March-Oct
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Karlobag
Longitude/Latitude:
15.117/44.5659
Wildcamping
The quiet forest roads bordering Velebit National Park are ideal for wild camping. There are bears around though, so stay wary.

Drašnice - Croatia

Description
One of Dalamatia's gems. A crag set high on the Makarska riviera with long, athletic routes on yellow limestone. You'll be spoiled with wide ocean views and amazing sunset skies. The rock can be loose so helmets are a must. Grades have yet to be confirmed... if you plan on warming up on the only 6a on the crag, be warned: grading is most likely a typo. You'd be better off starting with the 6b next to it.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
29
Grades:
4a-8c
Angle:
vertical & overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Sept-Apr
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Drašnice
Longitude/Latitude:
17.1124/43.2221
Wildcamping
The dirt track running parallel to the main coastal road (the same one you park on to go climbing) is perfect for staying overnight. The road is quiet, with few houses and great ocean views. The perfect place to watch the sun go down.

Hvar (Podstine) - Croatia

Description
A short but adventurous approach scrambling over boulders in the sea will get you to Podstine, a charming sea side crag not far from Hvar Town. Idyllic and quintessentially Croatian, it is south facing with sun all day and is climbeable all year round. Fret not though belayers: a huge boulder provides shade and protection from the wind on most routes.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
17
Grades:
5a-7b
Angle:
slab & vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Sept-Apr
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Hvar
Longitude/Latitude:
16.4261/43.1762
Wildcamping
Staying on the parking spot for Podstine is not an option: being so close to Hvar, the coastal roads are all built up. Instead head up back through the tunnel towards Podstine hotel and along the forest road. There are several well-hidden laybys to reverse into.

Hvar (Pokrivenik) - Croatia

Description
You'll find the Pokrivenik crags in a stunning, secluded bay surrounded climbeable sea cliffs. Due to the crag being new, some rock is still very sharp: watch your ropes and fingers. All routes have sea views and many are directly above the water, ideal for a post-climb swim in Croatia's crystal clear waters. Wild camping in Pokrivenik bay is only possible in low season when the campsite is closed.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
29
Grades:
5a-8a
Angle:
slabs, vertical & overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Sept-Apr
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Pokrivenik
Longitude/Latitude:
16.8846/43.1471
Wildcamping
In low season, it's possible to stay overnight in your van on the closed campsite right on the beach. There's a picnic table there, lovely spring flower covered fields to park up in and a shaded area to lounge in. Beach is a 2 minute walk away. If you want an apartment, there's a delightful couple (the gentleman is called Ante Zencic) with apartments to rent, also on the beach. Get in contact through Hvar portal. Apartment is "Apartmani Bepin".

Hvar (Suplja Stina) - Croatia

Description
Also known as "Little Thailand", Suplja Stina is a superb crag with 100+ long routes, many directly above sea, on pockets and holes. The setting is breathtaking and the sea just 10m away. Bolting is good though sometimes sparse (some climbers might wish for an extra bolt here and there) and the routes quite closely packed together so avoid the crowds. The crag sits on private land so an entrance fee is requested and in high season not all areas accessible without reservation at Cliffbase (an impressive on-site complex where accommodation is also offered). The routes directly above the sea, accessed via fixed ropes, are perfect for the extra adventurous types. Swimming is the only way back...
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
130
Grades:
5b-8a
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Sept-Apr
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Sveta Nedjelja
Longitude/Latitude:
16.5956/43.1346
Wildcamping
Wild camping in the village of Sveta Nedjelja has limited options and limited space so choose your timing wisely. There's only really room for one van to discretely wild camp in the forest. Rooms are available at www.cliffbase.com, the climbing center that owns the crag.

Klobuk - Croatia

Description
A superb winter crag with a great selection of longer, harder routes on tufas. The crag is set on the slopes of the mountain Mosor, sadly with a slightly difficult approach (terrain & path finding is difficult). Important: climbing is NOT ALLOWED between February and August due to nesting birds. There is huge potential for bolting new routes here as just a fraction of the walls have so far been bolted. The crag is comparable to Osp in Slovenia.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
39
Grades:
5b-8a+
Angle:
slabs, vertical & overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Nov-Jan
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris ?uji?
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Ku?ine
Longitude/Latitude:
16.5329/43.5272
Wildcamping
Beneath the crag, on the dirt track where you leave your car, is perfect for wild camping. You're amidst a dense forest with no building in sight, with birds singing and only the occasional hiker walking by. You could easily stay here several nights with no problem.

Kompanj - Croatia

Description
An impressive band of rock with 5+ sectors in a very leafy setting in Northern Croatia. It's hailed as being one of Croatia's most beautiful and popular crags so peak times can be busy. Go off season if you like peace and quiet when climbing. Great parking area dedicated to climbers where you can overnight no problem.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
110
Grades:
5a-8c+
Angle:
vertical / overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Kompanj
Longitude/Latitude:
14.0682/45.3927
Wildcamping
The crag parking is ideal for staying overnight
Additional information:
The forest beneath the Kompanj crag is brimming full of wild asparagus in spring!

Krk (Portafortuna) - Croatia

Description
At almost the very southern tip of Krk Island sits a nice little crag which, alongside slab climbing so typical in Croatia, offers some vertical and slightly overhanging wall climbing. A few great routes have been bolted in the mid-difficulty range. If you are on Krk and fancy a climbing day it's worth checking out but is too small to focus a climbing vacation on. The other two crags on Krk only offer very short routes and are not worth mentioning.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
67
Grades:
4a-7c
Angle:
slab & vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
March-Oct
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Baska
Longitude/Latitude:
14.6831/45.0216
Wildcamping
If don't mind stealth camping, stay overnight by the water fountain. In general, the island of Krk is quite strict with wild camping.

Limski Kanal - Croatia

Description
Above a deep, 12km-long fjord-shaped gulf lies the peaceful Limski Kanal crag which houses long, sustained routes in a mix of grades. Slabs are solid, cracks good and roofes pumpy. It's a popular place for climbing groups to go, so avoid weekends & bank holidays if you can.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
101
Grades:
4c-8a
Angle:
slabs, vertical & overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Sept-Apr
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Klostar
Longitude/Latitude:
13.7199/45.1391
Wildcamping
It's an amazing spot for wild camping and you could easily stay several nights. It's peaceful and you'll likely be alone at night, just don't tell too many people about it...!

Marjan - Croatia

Description
The Marjan crag is found bang in the middle of a protected nature reserve on a densely wooded peninsula just west of Split. It's best in winter as it gets swelteringly hot (shade hits only after 6pm in summer) and is a very popular place with locals (due to its proximity to Split). Routes are nice, though on the short side (often less than 20m). Stroll  along the crag to find interesting hermit dwellings carved into the rock. If you pass by Split, it's worth checking out... even if just for a swim at the iconic Marjan beach.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
78
Grades:
4b-8a
Angle:
vertical / overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Oct-Mar
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Split
Longitude/Latitude:
16.4006/43.5082
Wildcamping
Tricky. Best bet is a day trip here and finding an overnight spot outside of Split.
Additional information:
Other: the road leading directly up to the crag is closed to traffic but if you tell the guards you're climbers, they'll let you through!

Medveja - Croatia

Description
Another stunning, secluded harder crag with views of both ocean and dense forest below. Lots of hard routes on mostly overhanging rock full of tufas. Because of its steep descent (including several fix ropes) you're almost guaranteed to be alone.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
63
Grades:
4b-9a
Angle:
vertical / overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Nov-May
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Lovranska Draga
Longitude/Latitude:
14.2586/45.2766

Omiš - Croatia

Description
One of Croatia's climbing mekkas with 12 different sectors all centered around the Dalmatian town Omiš. Grade wise and climbing style wise there is something for everyone, with hundreds of routes to choose from. There are several 100+m multipitch routes (both trad and sport), slabs, vertical walls and overhangs. Virtually all crags have short approaches (max 5min).
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
212
Grades:
4a-8a+
Angle:
slabs, vertical & overhanging
Climbing:
sport & trad
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Omiš
Longitude/Latitude:
16.6844/43.4437
Wildcamping
The town of Omiš is built up so it's tricky to pop the roof but we found stealth camping in the harbour area worked fine, though we'd not recommend staying longer than one night.

Osoje - Croatia

Description
A peaceful, green setting is home to the Osoje crag in the atmospheric, wild Cikola canyon. Good footpaths (beautifully prepared thanks to EU funding) lead down to the crag from the well-signposted carpark. Superb quality long slabby routes (up to 80m) and a great tufa sector await. You can't get bored of the gorgeous canyon valley views here. Potential for bolting more routes is huge. Other: if you're there in spring, keep an eye out for wild asparagus growing by the side of the path. For a rest day, it's just a short drive to Krka National Park.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
56
Grades:
4b-7b
Angle:
slabs, vertical & overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Kljuc
Longitude/Latitude:
16.0445/43.8405
Wildcamping
There's a great car park just up above the canyon that's perfect for staying overnight, though can at times be quite windy.

Paklenica - Croatia

Description
Paklenica National Park has long had a worldwide reputation for offering superb climbing and is considered by many to be Croatia's number one climbing area. With good reason. Hundreds of routes adorn the steep walls of the narrow canyon (most are found in the majestic Velika and Mala Paklenica canyons) and there is everything from short singlepitch sport routes to long multipitch trad routes up to 400m. If you like climbing in the company of many (i.e. at times hundreds) of others, and don't mind being on show whilst climbing, Paklenica will fall into taste. If, however, you like your peace and quiet, choose your climbing days very carefully.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
360
Grades:
3-8b+
Angle:
slabs, vertical & overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Paklenica climbing guide by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Starigrad-Paklenica
Longitude/Latitude:
15.4711/44.3033
Wildcamping
overnighting in Paklenica National Park is forbidden. Your best bet is heading towards the coast.
Additional information:
you're required to pay an entry fee to climbing areas, though it's very reasonable.

Pazin - Croatia

Description
In the heart of the Istrian pensinsula is the famous Pazin cave and its underground river. It's in this cave, behind the waterfall, that some tough, short bouldery routes have been set.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
31
Grades:
4a-8b+
Angle:
vertical / overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing / Bouldering
Best time to visit:
April - September
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Pazin
Longitude/Latitude:
13.9615/45.2484

Perun - Croatia

Description
A stunning crag with beautiful views of Split and amazing sunset skies. Here you'll find high quality slabs with small holds requiring precise footwork and strong fingers. There is a small red overhanging section on tufas and a little cave that offers some shade from the midday sun... otherwise suncream up since the crag has sun all day. Fun fact: the crag is named after the God of Thunder - very appropriate.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
35
Grades:
4c-7b+
Angle:
slabs & overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Sept-Apr
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris ?uji?
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Podstrana
Longitude/Latitude:
16.5495/43.5007
Wildcamping
Again, stay away from the roads right down by the coast. Your best bet is along dirt tracks heading up the mountainside.
Additional information:
Watch our for snakes on the approach!

Vela Draga - Croatia

Description
Another Croatian gem. As you drop down into the Vela Draga valley (also a national park, so unspoiled nature is guaranteed), surreal needle-like towers emerge from below. Routes are on the shorter side, but the atmosphere unlike any other crag in Croatia. It's like a miniature Meteora just the towers are even thinner and more needle-like. A uniquely atmospheric place! If you're going to climb any shorter routes in Croatia, Vela Draga should be your number one choice. N.B. not all the needle towers are climbable, check before climbing... you wouldn't want any towers toppling over!
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
70
Grades:
4a-7b+
Angle:
slab & vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
spring & autumn
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Ucka
Longitude/Latitude:
14.1697/45.3199
Wildcamping
It is impossible to stay overnight in the official Vela Draga carpark, unless you want to risk a hefty fine. For a quiet, undisturbed night, head for the village Vranja (a 5min drive down the road) and follow the road towards the train tracks.

Viganj - Croatia

Description
Viganj, set high on the Peljesac peninsula amidst an ancient archaeological site, has short bouldery routes on slabby grey limestone with views over olive groves and a slither of ocean. Routes are on the shorter side but if you're in the area, it's worth a day trip.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
58
Grades:
4c-7c+
Angle:
slab & vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Sept-Apr
Guidebook:
Croatia Sport Climbing Guidebook by Boris Cujic
Location
Country:
Croatia
Nearest town:
Viganj
Longitude/Latitude:
17.0876/42.9961
Wildcamping
There are plenty of hidden laybys along the coast towards Orebic where you can park in sheltered woodland area without a problem. Stay clear of laybys with "no camping" signs - these do get checked.