Climbing Greece

Daskaleio - Greece

Description
It’s hard to believe Daskaleio is so close to Athens – it feels like you could be on a Greek island. A Greek island with almost snow-white marble cliffs directly above the sea and views of dolphins from both atop the climbs and the belay spots. Atmosphere gets a 10/10, quality of rock 8/10 but bolting: watch out for the rusty ones! ATTENTION: In 2016 mechanical tests were conducted on bolts and the result led to the conclusion that the place is unsuitable for climbing. Inform yourself by asking local climbers for the most recent information.
Rock
Rocktype:
Marble
Number of Routes:
26
Grades:
5b-7c
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of  by Aris Theodoropoulos
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Daskaleio
Longitude/Latitude:
24.0579/37.8309
Wildcamping
you can stay overnight at the parking for the crag.

Fyli - Greece

Description
Set in a wonderfully peaceful greenbelt north of Athens, not far from Mount Parnitha and Pana’s Cave, climbers will think they’ve struck gold. All within a few kilometers of each other are fifteen different crags with every style of climbing imaginable. The forests and crags surrounding Fyli are wonderfully peaceful and because of the number of crags around, you’re likely to be climbing alone.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
180
Grades:
4-8a
Angle:
slab/vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Athens climbing guide book by A Chaziris, G Chaziris and A Markou
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Fyli
Longitude/Latitude:
23.6623/38.1218
Wildcamping
Staying beneath the Mikra Varasova crag is ideal for climbers with vans – you’re sheltered from view by towering trees, on flat ground, with the village of Fyli just a 5minute drive away with all the facilities you could ever need. Listen for the two owls who nest close by… though if you’re a light-sleeper, bring earplugs – they start hooting at 4a.m.

Kapsala - Greece

Description
On the new road between Leonidio and Kyparissi (this little coastal village is otherwise only accessible via a high, often snow-dusted mountain pass) is where the crag Kapsala can be found. Set right above the ocean, with views northwards towards Fokiano’s white beach and eastwards out over dozens of Greek islands, this crag is also brand new with one superb 120m multipitch and dozens of well thought-out single pitch routes.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
25
Grades:
5b - 7b+
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of  by Aris Theodoropoulos
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Kyparissi
Longitude/Latitude:
22.992/37.0365
Wildcamping
The parking above capsala is quiet exposed so expect a little wind. It is far enough from any village so you wont disturb the locals.

Kyparissi - Greece

Description
The charming little village of Kyparissi, named after the cypress trees whose distinctive silhouettes adorn the hillsides above and below, is home to some of the Peloponnese’s finest crags. It's hailed as one of Greece's best hard crags, though only a fraction of the vast walls of limestone have so far been bolted. The potential here for setting up hard new routes is huge, especially above Kyparissi in crags like Watermill. Climbing is generally on vertical walls with pockets or on overhangs with tufas and holes. There are also several crags suited to "plaisir" climbers closer to the sea.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
150
Grades:
5a-8c
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of  by Aris Theodoropoulos
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Kyparissi
Longitude/Latitude:
22.9893/36.9632
Wildcamping
Vans are welcome in the village and you’ll find a choice of idyllic parking spots amongst olive trees (well signposted). Wifi is available at the cosy little coffee shop Maritsela if you buy a drink.

Leonidio - Greece

Description
Leonidio has become the Peloponnese's climbing darling, and for good reason. Idyllically placed, the impressive crags of Leonidio rise up high with ocean (including beautiful Greek beach) on one side and snow-dusted mountains on the other. There are nearing a hundred crags and thousands of routes, with everything from multipitch trad routes to vertical/slabby/overhanging sport routes across the whole range of grades. Most crags are well signposted with charming hand-painted signs and cairns lead the way to the base of crags.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
1000
Grades:
3-9a
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sport/Trad
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Leonidio  Climbing Guide Book by Panjika
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Leonidio
Longitude/Latitude:
22.8578/37.1681
Climbing shop:
Leonidio Climbing Guidebook by Panjika Cooperative. Panjika is a great climbing bar down in the town which offers tasty FairTrade food, local beer and a chilled out social space with games, books and cosy sofas.
Wildcamping
If you’re travelling by van, park up the windy road that leads to Vaskina – there are plenty of good sized lay bys on the corners with lovely views up the valley and out over the ocean –  or along the Plaka beach.
Additional information:
Don’t miss the market on a Monday, down by the river bed, for stocking up on fresh fruit and veg

Meteora - Greece

Description
Meteora - magical conglomerate towers. Nothing can prepare you for seeing Meteora with your own eyes. Definitely one of the craziest places you can climb in Europe! Huge conglomerate towers rise up around you, some with monasteries atop them and you’ve 800+ routes to choose from, both single and multipitch, sport and trad on funky pebbly rock. A truly magical place that will leave you mesmerized.
Rock
Rocktype:
conglomerate
Number of Routes:
800
Grades:
5b-8c
Angle:
slab/vertical
Climbing:
Multi-Pitch/Trad
Best time to visit:
April-November
Guidebook:
  1. Meteora Climbing and Hiking Guide (1986). (first 230 routes up to 1986)
  2. Meteora Climbing Part II (2000). (additional 440 routes bolted between 1986 and 2000)
by Dietrich Hasse and Heinz Lothar Stutte
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Kastraki
Longitude/Latitude:
21.6339/39.7186
Wildcamping
Wild camping in Meteora is forbidden and police will chase you away. You best bet is just above Meteora on the road towards Vlachava. As you reach the crest of the hill, turn off left for a wild, quiet spot with views over the rolling Thessaly plains.
Additional information:
Meteora is also a playground for highliners, with hundreds of towers to rig your line. There was a highline festival here just a few years ago so many towers are bolted and ready for set-up.

Mouzaki - Greece

Description
Mouzaki is by far the best-kept, best equipped crag in Greece. Unbelievable! Not only have local climbers equipped the crag to perfection including clippable lower-offs, they have also built a “lounge area” and a delightful wooden hut beneath the technicolour walls that stays open for any climbers to use & sleeps up to 8 people. This place is allegedly Central Greece’s most popular sport climbing crag and we can see why. Not only is the crag really easy to get to (again, thanks to the local climbers fixing steps) and ultra comfortable (they’ve also leveled off terrain for belayers), the setting is amazing. Set on a natural balcony overlooking the Pamisos River valley, the crag gets sun almost all day and has views of forests as far as the eye can see.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
51
Grades:
5c-8c
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of by Aris Theodoropoulos
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Mouzaki
Longitude/Latitude:
21.6646/39.4141
Wildcamping
Staying overnight is possible at the car park of the crag.

Nafplio - Greece

Description
Nafplio is the place Athenians come on cold winter days for some sunshine and seaside climbing in a picturesque bay, sheltered from the chilly North wind. There are a handful of crags to choose from but the star attraction is Neraki – a compact, deep-red limestone crag just a stone’s throw from a pebbled beach where you can swim all year round. The approach to the Neraki crag is an idyllic stroll along a promenade that hugs the sea with lovely views across the Argolic Gulf and distant mountain peaks.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
49
Grades:
4-7c
Angle:
Vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of  by Aris Theodoropoulos
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Nafplio
Longitude/Latitude:
22.8076/37.5527
Wildcamping
Staying overnight at Karathona beach is not only beautiful but there is water and wifi available there. As an alternative more quiet option try Niko Sarti beach.
Additional information:
The quaint town of Nafplio is well worth a visit on a rest day with several castles, a sophisticated Old Town and lively quayside. Markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Varasova - Greece

Description
Hailed Greece's best seaside crag, Varasova is a solid limestone massif full of both single and multipitch routes on good quality, quite sharp limestone. It's amoungst the most popular and well-known Greek crags so time your visit carefully so as to avoid crowds. The rock is amazingly varied with everything from vertical cracks, steep corners and compact walls to slabs. Both hidden hand and footholds reign supreme here.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
200
Grades:
4c-8b
Angle:
vertical/slab
Climbing:
Sportclimbing/Multi-Pitch
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of  by Aris Theodoropoulos
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Varasova
Longitude/Latitude:
21.5984/38.3438
Wildcamping
Park up on the beach (5min drive from Kryoneri village) right under the walls.

Vlychada - Greece

Description
We can vouch for what the mini-guide on climbing in Vlychada claims: “Vlychada is unbelievable – it is most people’s dream crag”. This is no overstatement. Set on a beach with emerald waters is a crag that’s just hit the climbing scene and is bound to create some noise. Bolted in September 2016, this crag offers stunning lines on clean, multi-coloured, bulletproof limestone in a breathtakingly remote, wild yet accessible little cove on the south east coast of the Peloponnese. Park on the beach, wake up to the sun rising above the ocean, potter 20 meters to the crag to climb top quality rock all day (pitches up to 40 meters), then 20 meters towards the aquamarine waters to freshen up afterwards. Going in low-season increase your chances of having the beach and crag to yourself. Do not miss it.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
15
Grades:
5b-7b
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of  by Aris Theodoropoulos
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Kyparissi
Longitude/Latitude:
23.0382/36.8593
Wildcamping
It is permitted, even encouraged, to stay overnight on the beach and in high-season there are even loos, showers, bins and running water available. None of these function in low season so make sure you’ve enough water.

Zobolo - Greece

Description
On virtually the southernmost tip of the Peloponnese, lies the impressive Zobolo crag. Beautifully set routes on good quality rock with lots of hidden pockets and the kind of setting one expects from Greece: a wide 180 degree ocean view with Greek islands silhouetted against the sky. Climbing here makes you feel like you're on the edge of world. Bravo local climbers for the superb signposting!
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
150
Grades:
5a-8a
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Oktober - May
Guidebook:
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of by Aris Theodoropoulos
Location
Country:
Greece
Nearest town:
Marmari
Longitude/Latitude:
23.1308/36.4408
Wildcamping
Stay overnight in your van on the crag parking amidst the “fossil forest” and see how many fossilized trees you can find…