Climbing Ireland

Ailladie - Ireland

Description
Aillladie offers some of the best (if not the best) sea cliff climbing in the country. The sandstone walls are of superb quality and a lot of classic routes can be found here. As a tip form the editors: On Arron Wall climb Gallows Pole and Marchanded Crack both E2 and stunning routes.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
120
Grades:
D-E7
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
Ireland
Nearest town:
Doolin
Longitude/Latitude:
-9.30945/53.0971
Wildcamping
Camp on the fields or on the parking/ lay-bys right above the cliffs along the street.

Cruit Island - Ireland

Description
Cruit island has over a dozen small granite crags. However, the best one with mostly easier routes is called Albatross Zawn and has very convenient access. Also a little beach is right next to the parking and adds to the uniqueness of this place.
Rock
Rocktype:
Granite
Number of Routes:
20
Grades:
VD-E2
Angle:
vertical/slab
Climbing:
Trad/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
Ireland
Nearest town:
Kincasslagh
Longitude/Latitude:
-8.42275/55.0338
Wildcamping
The parking on a little grass patch works very well for camping!

Dun Seanna Head - Ireland

Description
The seacliffs at dun seanna head are stunning and offer some nice single pitch climbing in a very atmospheric scenery. The most notable feature is probably the narrow sea stack (“the needle”) which is a fun adventure (either VS 4c or E1 5b) as the climb back up on the main cliff is sparsely protected and requires some nerves.
Rock
Rocktype:
Sandstone
Number of Routes:
30
Grades:
VD-E4
Angle:
vertical/slab
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
Ireland
Nearest town:
Dingle
Longitude/Latitude:
-10.2225/52.1178
Wildcamping
Camping at the beach is forbidden but staying overnight in a car on the small car park is no problem and still quite idyllic.

Gap of Dunloe - Ireland

Description
Shorter climbs very accessible and mutli pitch climbs ca 30min by foot. Very beautiful landscape with lakes where you can swim right there. Tip: Brennans Leap: Deadline E3 6a: Bold start, place two smaller cams in the overhang, pull through and follow the crack. In peak season the road is mainly used by horse carriages. The rides will tell you not to go up the road with your car. If you tell them you are going rock climbing they will let you pass though. Parking is rare but if you drive in the evening or early morning there will be room right after the bridge which is very close to the two lakes as well.
Rock
Rocktype:
Sandstone
Number of Routes:
100
Grades:
VD-E5
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
Ireland
Nearest town:
Killarney
Longitude/Latitude:
-9.64096/52.0304
Wildcamping
We stayed overnight at the parking right after the bridge (and after Brennans Leap) and had no problem. The street is crowded during the day but in the evening/night/morning its very quiet.

Glendalough - Ireland

Description
Great scenery, great climbing and well protected. If you do not mind being a little exposed this place offers some great multi pitch routes!
Rock
Rocktype:
Granite
Number of Routes:
150
Grades:
VD-E6
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
Ireland
Nearest town:
Glendalough
Longitude/Latitude:
-6.38697/53.0087
Wildcamping
Sleeping is not permitted in the Glendalough valley but anywhere else in Wicklow. Its easy to find a quite lay-by / parking near the climbing spot but outside the Glendalough valley.

Luggala - Ireland

Description
The impressive crag is located just above Lough Tay with a beautiful scenery. If you enjoy multi pitch trad routes/adventures then this place is well worth a visit. Grade wise there should be something for everyone as there are routes ranging from S-E7
Rock
Rocktype:
Granite
Number of Routes:
100
Grades:
S-E7
Angle:
vertical/slab
Climbing:
Trad climbing
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
Ireland
Nearest town:
Roundwood
Longitude/Latitude:
-6.27426/53.1072
Wildcamping
Camping/ staying in a camper van is permitted on all the lay-bys and parkings in wicklow national park except for the glendalough valley.

Muckros Head - Ireland

Description
A very steep crag which offers streneous/bouldery but well protected climbing. The walls spot many roofs and are covered with horizontal breaks. Some routes can be prone to seepage but its difficult to predict. A must see crag in Ireland as it is so much different from anything else.
Rock
Rocktype:
Sandstone
Number of Routes:
70
Grades:
D-E7
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
Ireland
Nearest town:
Kilcar
Longitude/Latitude:
-8.59183/54.6087
Wildcamping
The parking at muckros is very idyllic and staying overnight is permitted

Sail Rock - Ireland

Description
In a very atmospheric setting lies a curved slab of quartzite with arguably the one of the best lines in ireland. There are two routes on this wall but dont bother with the easier one as it is along some quite lose rock and only the last pitch would really be worth it. The prominent “Main Mast” (E2) however is well worth a visit if you get the chance.
Rock
Rocktype:
Quartzite
Number of Routes:
5
Grades:
VS-E2
Angle:
vertical/slab
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
Ireland
Nearest town:
Teelin
Longitude/Latitude:
-8.67763/54.6196
Wildcamping
The parking at muckros is very idyllic and staying overnight is permitted