Climbing Italy

Camaiore (Greppolungo) - Italy

Description
Peaceful limestone crag in the picturesque Tuscan hills. The region is mainly known for its superb climbing on tufas but offers a variety of different climbing styles. The region Tuscany is worth driving through with beautiful landscapes and medieval villages.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
785
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
all year
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Greppolungo
Longitude/Latitude:
10.3013/43.9535
Climbing shop:
Toscoclimb Store Via C. Battisti in Camaiore
Wildcamping
The car park just in front of Greppolungo is ideal for staying with water just a few meters away. Alternatively you can stay on the car park opposite of the hostel in Camaiore.

Finale Ligure - Italy

Description
Finale Ligure is a sportclimbing paradise with thousands of routes on white limestone rock. There are over 20 sectors some right on the sea front and some in a succession of valleys covering an area of 10km2. Routes are mainly single pitch but there are a handful of multi pitch routes up to 4 pitches long. Generally the rock quality is superb although in few sectors holds are quite polished.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
2800
Grades:
3-8c+
Angle:
Vertical/Overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Finale 8.0 by Andrea Gallo
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Finale Ligure
Longitude/Latitude:
8.31993/44.196
Climbing shop:
In Final Borgo you  will find everything a climber needs.
Wildcamping
You can stay overnight in the parking spaces for rocca di perti. The car park at the end of the street (44.197475, 8.309736) even offers a fountain with drinkable water.

Grotti (Rieti) - Italy

Description
Grotti became most famous in the 90s for its huge potential. In recent years a new sector has been added and many of the classic routes have been rebolted. The climbing is technical and quiet fingery on sharp pockets. The routes are long (up to 40m) and climbing is even possible in light rain. If you are looking for a place to climb in the area of Rome, Grotti is your place.  
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
230
Grades:
4c-8c
Angle:
Vertical/Overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Grotti
Longitude/Latitude:
12.9409/42.3571
Wildcamping
You can stay on the parking next to the school (42.354959, 12.948796)

Muzzerone - Italy

Description
Dramatic sea cliff climbing with easy access and climbing across all grades. Many of the 18 crags have been rebolted and a variety of climbing styles can be found here. Both single and multi pitch routes are available. The rock can be loose and polished.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
540
Grades:
4a-8a+
Angle:
Slab/Vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Autumn, Spring
Guidebook:
Muzzerone e levante Ligure by Davide Battistella
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
La Spezia
Longitude/Latitude:
9.82521/44.0588
Wildcamping
You can stay at the parking in one of the hairpin bends on the road towards the refugio.

Positano - Italy

Description
Climbing on Italy's Amalfi Coast is as enchanting as it sounds. Dozens of crags await, with 200+ routes on steep, tufa lined overhanging walls, all with great ocean views. The area has huge climbing potential and is jaw-droppingly scenic, with just the drive through worth making the trip for. Villages cling to steep cliffs, with rock faces above and below.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
200
Grades:
5a-8a
Angle:
Vertical/Overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Montepertuso
Longitude/Latitude:
14.4884/40.6371
Wildcamping
Wildcamping (even just parking) is difficult here because the roads are very narrow and not a lot of free space is available - so be creative 🙂

Sicily (Bronte) - Italy

Description
If you want to climb whilst overlooking a volcano, this is the place for you. This random little crag, known as Roccazzo di Canalaci to the locals, is perched high above the town of Bronte and overlooks the western side of Mount Etna, one of Europe’s highest and most volatile volcanoes. The crag (compact sandstone quartz) is surprisingly charming and has some lovely lines despite being a little green.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
10
Grades:
4c-6c
Angle:
slab/vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Di Roccia Di Sole Climbing in Sicily by M. Cappuccio, C. Cianciolo, G. Gallo
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Bronte
Longitude/Latitude:
14.8552/37.8122
Wildcamping
you can stay on the parking for the crag

Sicily (Contrada Alfano) - Italy

Description
Handfuls of canyons, caves and impressive rock faces grace the plateau north of Canicattini Bagni, where six different climbing areas can be found. Very popular with local Italian climbers, the Contrada Alfano area is one of the most popular climbing venues in the province of Siracusa.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
136
Grades:
4a - 8b
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Di Roccia Di Sole Climbing in Sicily by M. Cappuccio, C. Cianciolo, G. Gallo
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Canicattini Bagni
Longitude/Latitude:
15.083/37.0582

Sicily (Pandora) - Italy

Description
Ragusa, in the southeastern corner of Sicily, has a different feel to up north. The landscape looks deceptively flat but cut deep into the earth every few kilometres are dozens of canyons full of climbable walls. Pandora, just one such canyon running south of Modica, has a great setting (including two slacklines) and offers athletic, bouldery routes. If you like one- and two-finger holds, you’ll love this place! Watch out for the crazy rabbit-shooting man…
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
43
Grades:
5a-8b
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Di Roccia Di Sole Climbing in Sicily by M. Cappuccio, C. Cianciolo, G. Gallo
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Marina di Modica
Longitude/Latitude:
14.7975/36.7664
Wildcamping
You can stay overnight on the car park for the crag

Sicily (San Fratello) - Italy

Description
On the western side of Monte San Fratello overlooking the valley, lies a compact limestone crag with superb crack lines on vertical rock, a slab sector and pumpy overhang section. Approach is short, climbing style varied and grades across the board.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
25
Grades:
4c-7c+
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Di Roccia Di Sole Climbing in Sicily by M. Cappuccio, C. Cianciolo, G. Gallo
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
San Fratello
Longitude/Latitude:
14.5827/38.0334

Sicily (San Vito lo Capo) - Italy

Description
San Vito Lo Capo is home to some of Sicily’s most breathtaking rocky treasures. Your jaws will drop at the sheer number of walls – everywhere you look are climbable cliffs rising up from the otherwise flat countryside like daggers. The rock in all the crags we visited was of superb quality, full of amazing features (including lots of tufas!) and all with incredible views over the ocean. With thousands of routes to choose from, you could spend a lifetime here and never get bored.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
650
Grades:
4a - 9a
Angle:
slab/vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
Oktober - May
Guidebook:
Di Roccia di Sole Climbing in Sicily by M. Cappuccio, C. Cianciolo, G. Gallo
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
San Vito Lo Capo
Longitude/Latitude:
12.7166/38.1755
Climbing shop:
Climbing House in San Vito lo Capo: http://www.ymcaclimbingsanvito.it/en/
Wildcamping
You can sleep right at the beach 5min from climbing crags at cala mancina (38.175539, 12.716644)
Additional information:
Don’t miss sunsets over the Cofano gulf from almost anywhere along the Salinella cliffs (a band of rock 4km long stretching westwards along the peninsula) followed by a sociable drink at the Climbing House (http://www.ymcaclimbingsanvito.it/) in town. Belayers beware: watch out for the gheccos on the walls, biting each others’ heads. As well as watching your partner climb, watch out for said gheccos when they lose the head-biting contest and come flying towards you from 30m high.

Sicily (Stockholm) - Italy

Description
The posterchild of climbing in Sicily, the Stockholm crag offers excellent marble-like limestone climbing on a pebbled beach where crystal clear waters lap at the belayers' feet. Routes are well bolted and most are in the shade if you time it right (afternoons are best). Expect lots of crimps, pinch grips and hidden pockets on athletic, bouldery routes (most with difficult starts).
Other: avoid climbing on summer mornings when the beach is full of sun bathers. Avoid hot, damp days too since grip suffers.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
29
Grades:
6a - 8a+
Angle:
overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October - May
Guidebook:
Di Roccia Di Sole Climbing in Sicily by M. Cappuccio, C. Cianciolo, G. Gallo
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Taormina
Longitude/Latitude:
15.2967/37.8628

Sperlonga - Italy

Description
Sperlonga is a well known climbing area between Roma and Napoli. Next to the main crags that lie between Sperlonga and Gaeta there is a sector right at the beach with a cave and some more vertical routes (sadly quiet polished) as well as the cliffs of Gaeta which offer adventurous multi pitch climbing. The rock quality is generally very good apart from a few exceptions. A very nice place for some winter climbing...
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
350
Angle:
Slab/Vertical/Overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Blue Rock by Tommaso Sciannella and Bruno Vitale
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
Sperlonga
Longitude/Latitude:
13.4943/41.239
Climbing shop:
The cafe "Ristoro da Guido" at the start of the approach sells guidebooks as well as some gear.
Wildcamping
Wildcamping is not superb in Sperlonga. There are a few car parks by the road where you can stay overnight but its nothing beautiful or quiet.  

Val di Mello - Italy

Description
The valley Val Masino is Europe's equivalent of Yosemite valley and any trip there will blow your mind. Val di Mello, one of the three valleys in the Val Masino region, is not only a mecca for long multipitch trad routes on immense slabs with immaculate cracks running through them, it also offer world class bouldering in a magical setting of alpine meadows, postcard-perfect waterfalls, spiky ridges and snow-capped peaks. A breathtakingly beautiful place.
Rock
Rocktype:
granite
Number of Routes:
3000
Grades:
5c-8a
Angle:
slab
Climbing:
bouldering, trad & sport climbing
Best time to visit:
May-Sept
Guidebook:
Masino-Bregaglia–Regno del Granito by Andrea Gaddi
Location
Country:
Italy
Nearest town:
San Martino
Longitude/Latitude:
9.66227/46.2573
Wildcamping
In Val di Mello itself it is not permitted to wild camp: the only option is the reasonably priced Camp Ground Jack. Further out the valley, past San Martino you will find some larger carparks & laybys possible for stealth camping.