Climbing Portugal

Cascais - Portugal

Description
Cascais is another wild sea cliff on the west coast of Portugal close to Lisabon. The routes are easily accessed by a staircase carved into the rock. The crag is well kept with route names and grades painted on the rock. The rock is quite polished due to its popularity. The setting of the place is one of a kind and should not be missed!
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
60
Grades:
3-7c
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sport/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
all year
Location
Country:
Portugal
Nearest town:
Cascais
Longitude/Latitude:
-9.44788/38.6952

Peneda-Gerês - Portugal

Description
This impressive granite massif is locatednin the Peneda-Gerês national park in the north of Portugal set high above the church of Nossa Senhora da Peneda. It is one of the only places where climbing in the national park in Portugal is allowed. The routes are mostly multi pitch  climbs (100-200m) that can require a whole day. The climbing style varies from laybacking on slopey cracks to athletic roof climbing. To get the most out of this place  make sure you are solid on steep slab climbing otherwise this place is truly magnificent even if its just to drive through.
Rock
Rocktype:
Granite
Number of Routes:
60
Grades:
6a-7b+
Angle:
Slab/Vertical/Overhanging
Climbing:
Sport/Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
check the signs below the crag for topos.
Location
Country:
Portugal
Nearest town:
Peneda
Longitude/Latitude:
-8.22447/41.9769
Wildcamping
A little outside of Peneda in the forest there are several lay-bys where staying overnight is possible. It has to be said that camping in the national park is restricted.

Redinha - Portugal

Description
A peaceful crag set on a hill side overlooking green vistas. The walls are not very long (averaging 15-20m) but the quality of the rock is great and the routes are well equipped. This is generally a quiet crag with a variety of fun routes with lots of fingery pockets. There is also a chapel built into the rock which adds character to the place.
Rock
Rocktype:
gray limestone
Number of Routes:
120
Grades:
3-8a
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Guia de Escalada by Marco Inácio
Location
Country:
Portugal
Nearest town:
Redinha
Longitude/Latitude:
-8.55092/39.9928
Wildcamping
The parking next to the chapel and far above the village allows for a quiet overnight spot.

Sagres - Portugal

Description
Sagres is mainly known for its surfing and the village is full of laid back surfer dudes. There are however up and coming climbing sectors scattered across the coastline. The setting is wild and the coastline breathtaking. Care should be taken in all sectors regarding bolts due to the corrosive sea spray. Damaged bolts may appear fine but can snap off even when loaded with just a few kilograms. There are efforts of the local climbing community to solve this problem using titanium bolts. For more information check out http://climbingpt.com/titan-project/. The quality of the climbing in Sagres is not superb and often times loose or green. However, the scenery makes up for it and its one of the wildest places to climb in Portugal, well worth a visit.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
120
Grades:
6b+-9a
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Guia de escalada Sagres by AMEA. Alternatively you can get a hold of the topos at the bar Dromedario in Sagres.
Location
Country:
Portugal
Nearest town:
Sagres
Longitude/Latitude:
-8.98912/37.0245
Wildcamping
Depending on the season it is ok to stay on the lay by car parks above the cliffs. The safest (and probably nicest) spot is "praia da furnas" (37.055830, -8.854200) where you can park your van right by the beach. There are bins available and a water source nearby.

Sintra - Portugal

Description
Sintra is a world heritage site near Lisabon where there are plenty of multi-pitch climbs and thousands of boulders to explore. The crags are set in fairytale-like forest surrounded by beautiful castles, palaces and gardens.
Rock
Rocktype:
Granite
Number of Routes:
38
Grades:
3-7c
Angle:
Slab/Vertical
Climbing:
Sport/Trad/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Portugal-Onsight & Bloc by David & Carrie Atchison-Jones
Location
Country:
Portugal
Nearest town:
Sintra
Longitude/Latitude:
-9.42647/38.7902
Wildcamping
Parking spaces are sparse in Sintra. If you can park in the forest in one of the lay bys where staying over night is feasible.