Climbing Spain

Calp (Olta) - Spain

Description
Olta is the impressive ridge of rock which overlooks calp, the Peñón and the impressive Costa Blanca coast line. The rock is sharp and tough on the fingers but offers excellent climbing.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
43
Grades:
4-7c
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Spain: Costa Blanca by Chris Craggs and Alan James
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Oltamar
Longitude/Latitude:
0.022507/38.6564
Wildcamping
There is a good value for money campsite in Oltamare which is for free in the winter months.  (38.658762, 0.026163)

Calp (Peñón de Ifach) - Spain

Description
The Peñón is the most striking land  mark in the whole of Costa Blanca. The south face is the more extensive of the two main climbing areas with complex rock architecture and adventurous multi pitch climbing. Some classic routes are fully bolted but bring a rack on all occasions. All routes are long and need  a minimum of 5 hours.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
29
Grades:
5a-7b
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sport/Trad
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Spain: Costa Blanca by Chris Craggs and Alan James
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Calp
Longitude/Latitude:
0.072692/38.637
Wildcamping
Finding a quiet spot in Calp is difficult. A hidden gem is Puerto Blanco where you have an almost private beach and running water (not drinkable) to your self (38.635138, 0.034390).

Calp (Sierra de Toix) - Spain

Description
The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge jutting out into the sea between Calp and Altea. You will find routes all along t?e ridge facing in all directions. Its one of the most popular crags in the Costa Blanca region. Dramatic wild setting. Whether you enjoy sea cliff climbing, multi-pitch routes or ridge climbs the Sierra de Toix offers it all.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
198
Grades:
4-8a+
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Spain: Costa Blanca by Chris Craggs and Alan James
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Calp
Longitude/Latitude:
0.01126/38.6362
Wildcamping
Finding a quiet spot in Calp is difficult. A hidden gem is Puerto Blanco where you have an almost private beach and running water (not drinkable) to your self (38.635138, 0.034390).

El Chorro - Spain

Description
One of Europe's best known climbing spots which became a mecca for sportclimbers during the 1980. The situation has changed in recent years with access issues to popular crags including the central gorge mainly due to the commercialisation of the "camminito  del rey".  The setting is still stunning but do not expect a village full of active climber life. Nevertheless there are still a number of crags accessible and well worth a visit.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
1032
Grades:
3-9a+
Angle:
Vertical/Overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
El Chorro by Mark Glaister
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
El Chorro
Longitude/Latitude:
-4.76052/36.9131
Wildcamping
There is a camp site in El Chorro which is closed during the winter month. However, there is a decent parking down by the bridge which offers great free camping possibilities. (36.906645, -4.760174)

Extauri - Spain

Description
Extauri has a long history of climbing with more than 800 routes and a good choice of rock faces of all grades and styles. Climbing is rather technical and on the harder grades very crimpy. But you will also find crags and corners. The crag is located in a stunning setting with eagles flying above.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
800
Grades:
3-9a
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sport/Trad
Best time to visit:
October-April
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Extauri
Longitude/Latitude:
-1.83795/42.7985
Climbing shop:
Escalada en Navarra by Carlos Velazquez
Wildcamping
You can stay overnight on the parking for the crag (located right at a decently big street).

Gandia (Bellus) - Spain

Description
Tucked away in the hillside are some excellent routes closely packed on great rock with lots of variety. The climbing is generally fierce on the fingers and very technical.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
248
Grades:
4-8a
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Spain: Costa Blanca by Chris Craggs and Alan James
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Gandia
Longitude/Latitude:
-0.486504/38.956
Wildcamping
You can stay overnight on the  small car park before the footpath.

Montserrat - Spain

Description
The Montserrat range in Catalonia is a playground for climbers, with hundreds of conglomerate rock needles to climb. There are long multi pitches (200-300m) as well as single pitch routes to be found here.
Rock
Rocktype:
conglomerate
Number of Routes:
1000
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sport/Trad
Best time to visit:
August-May
Guidebook:
Montserrat Free Climbs by Josep Castellnou
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Monistrol de Montserrat
Longitude/Latitude:
1.83588/41.5945

Riglos - Spain

Description
Some of the best and most unique multi pitch climbing in Spain, on mammoth conglomerate towers.
Rock
Rocktype:
conglomerate
Number of Routes:
300
Grades:
4c-7b+
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
September-May
Guidebook:
Riglos Vertical, Miguel Carasol and Chema Agustin
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Riglos
Longitude/Latitude:
-0.723657/42.3511
Climbing shop:
You can find most climbing essentials (including guidebook) in the Riglos Refugio in the middle of the village.
Wildcamping
Riglos has two large car parks on the right-hand side just before you enter Riglos village where it's no problem to stay overnight. In peak season, you can expect to see lots of vans parked up there with music playing and van doors open.

San Fausto - Spain

Description
A peaceful easier crag set beneath trees with lovely views over the Pamplona region. San Fausto is known as one of the best smaller quality crags close to Extauri.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
124
Grades:
5c-7a+
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Guidebook:
Escalada en Navarra by Carlos Velazquez
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Eraul
Longitude/Latitude:
-2.05977/42.7073
Wildcamping
The car park offers quiet and idyllic wild camping (42.714282, -2.054182)

Sella - Spain

Description
One one of the most popular crags in the Costa Blanca region with both single and multi pitch, trad and sport routes. Routes vary from powerful and steep to slabby and pleasant.  The more popular routes are slightly polished but still worth climbing.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
289
Grades:
3-8a
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Sport/Trad
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Spain: Costa Blanca by Chris Craggs and Alan James
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Sella
Longitude/Latitude:
-0.232148/38.6199
Wildcamping
There are several car parks below the wall in the valley floor but unfortunately it is prohibited to stay overnight. If you dont want to risk it you can stay on the car park of the refugio a little further down.

Tarragona (Arboli) - Spain

Description
Great limestone climbing in the Serra de Prades mountains. Dozens of low to middle grade routes as well as harder climbs on unrelentingly steep faces. Stunning views across the valley to Siurana and Montsant. The walls are south facing and best during colder months.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
257
Grades:
4-8b
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Tarragona Climbs by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Cornudella de Montsant
Longitude/Latitude:
0.936756/41.2401
Wildcamping
Just before exiting Cornudella (in direction Arboli) there is a large car park on the left hand side where staying overnight is possible. Otherwise drive down to the Panta de Siurana (Lake) and park in one of the lay-bys.
Additional information:
Water is hard to come by. There is a water fountain just by the school and by the church in Cornudella. We strongly recommend to add water purification tablets as we had a slight mold issue after using this water.

Tarragona (Siurana) - Spain

Description
Siurana is probably the best known area in Tarragona. Routes often have small sharp crimps and side-pulls on vertical or gently overhanging walls. The rock quality is superb and the setting is stunning!
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
1400
Grades:
4-9b
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Tarragona Climbs by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Cornudella de Montsant
Longitude/Latitude:
0.934151/41.2614
Wildcamping
Just before exiting Cornudella (in direction Arboli) there is a large car park on the left hand side where staying overnight is possible. Otherwise drive down to the Panta de Siurana (Lake) and park in one of the lay-bys.
Additional information:
Water is hard to come by. There is a water fountain just by the school and by the church in Cornudella. We strongly recommend to add water purification tablets as we had a slight mold issue after using this water.

Valdehuesa - Spain

Description
In a beautiful accessible setting Valdehuesa is the biggest sport crag in the León region. The quality of the rock is superb and there is a good mix of grades. The routes stretch on a long band of rock with little protection from the sun. Climbing is generally fingery and technical.
Rock
Rocktype:
limestone
Number of Routes:
262
Grades:
4-8b
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Sportclimbing
Best time to visit:
October-April
Guidebook:
Roca Verde by Richie Patterson
Location
Country:
Spain
Nearest town:
Boñar
Longitude/Latitude:
-5.31759/42.9265
Wildcamping
You can stay overnight on the car park (lay by) right in front of the crag