Climbing United Kingdom

Achmelvich - UK

Description
One of the best bouldering beaches in Scotland. The landscape and views are stunning and the bouldering is similar to vertical wall climbing. A very magical spot.
Rock
Rocktype:
Gneiss
Number of Routes:
20
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Bouldering
Best time to visit:
May-September
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Achmelvich
Longitude/Latitude:
-5.30328/58.1733
Wildcamping
There is a campsite well sign posted as you drive to the beach. Staying overnight on the parking is not permitted but wild camping is possible a little outside of the bay in numerous lay-bys.

Bowden Doors - UK

Description
Bowden Doors is famous for its excellent hard sandstone walls for both trad and bouldering. The routes are technical and tend to be fingery in the harder grades. Definitely worth a visit if you are in Northumbria.
Rock
Rocktype:
Sandstone (hard)
Number of Routes:
286
Grades:
D-E6, F3-F8B
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Northern England by Chris Craggs
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Belford
Longitude/Latitude:
-1.89056/55.5861
Wildcamping
You can discretely stay on the parking for the crag.

Fair Head - UK

Description
Fair Head is undoubtedly one of the most popular, best crags in Ireland. The long arc of dolerite extends for 3km and hosts over 400 routes. If you plan on doing a climbing trip in Ireland Fair Head needs to be on your list!
Rock
Rocktype:
Dolerite
Number of Routes:
430
Grades:
VS-E9
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
May-September
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Fair Head
Longitude/Latitude:
-6.15804/55.2264
Wildcamping
The nicest spot we stayed overnight was definitely in Fair Head, or close to it anyway. If you follow the signs towards murlough bay you will reach a small road (bumpy) sign posted as a dead end (and a sign saying "road prone to subsidence"). Follow the road to the very end until you reach a car park and a little cottage. Park there and be overwhelmed by the beauty of the place.

Hawkcraig - UK

Description
An easily accessible sea cliff crag which dries quickly and has a great selection of mid grade climbs. Perfect spot for an evening climb when coming from Edinburgh.
Rock
Rocktype:
Dolerite
Number of Routes:
69
Grades:
D-E2
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Lowland Outcrops by Scottish Mountaineering Club (SMC)
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Aberdour
Longitude/Latitude:
-3.28583/56.0503

Lake District (Cathedral Quarry/Black Hole) - UK

Description
Long, rather difficult routes in a very cool cavernous setting. Approached via the well known Cathedral Cavern via an underground tunnel. The crag does not dry quickly and can often be damp.
Rock
Rocktype:
Slate
Number of Routes:
26
Grades:
6c-7a+, E1-E6
Angle:
Vertical/Overhanging
Climbing:
Sport/Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Skelwith Bridge
Longitude/Latitude:
-3.05861/54.4161

Lake District (Gillercombe Buttress) - UK

Description
One of the classic large mountain crags in the Lakes with several multi pitch routes on it. Approach either from Honister Summit or steeply from Seathwaite.
Rock
Rocktype:
Rhyolite
Number of Routes:
9
Grades:
S-E2
Angle:
Slab
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Borrowdale by Fell & Rock Climbing Club
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Seathwaite
Longitude/Latitude:
-3.2021/54.5019

Lake District (Raven Crag, Langdale) - UK

Description
Raven crag offers six different buttresses with both longer (up to 3 pitches) and short routes. The crag is accessed by a path leading up from behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.
Rock
Rocktype:
Rhyolite
Number of Routes:
125
Grades:
D-E8
Angle:
vertical/slab
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Lake District Rock by FRCC
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Great Langdale
Longitude/Latitude:
-3.1042/54.4481

Lake District (Tophet Wall) - UK

Description
Another classic easier mountain route in the Lake District. 75 meters high with 4 pitches of climbing.
Rock
Rocktype:
Rhyolite
Number of Routes:
25
Grades:
VD-E9
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Lake District Rock by FRCC
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Wasdale Head
Longitude/Latitude:
-3.2194/54.48

Mourne Mountains (Annalong Buttress) - UK

Description
A small crag that features some very nice slab climbing in the easier range.
Rock
Rocktype:
Granite
Number of Routes:
23
Grades:
VD-E2
Angle:
slab
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Annalong
Longitude/Latitude:
-5.93612/54.1739
Wildcamping
The approach is quite far and requires hiking for about 90min. Therefore no close car park exist. However you can pitch a tent right next to the crag

Mourne Mountains (Pidgeon Rock) - UK

Description
Pigeon Rock is quite popular because of its short approach and good climbs. On The main face several very good 2-3 pitch climbs exist (try Lunar Wall E1 5b) and further to the right on the citroen wall some superb single pitch climbing can be found (tip: Phantoms E1 5b).
Rock
Rocktype:
Granite
Number of Routes:
61
Grades:
S-E5
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Rock climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Hilltown
Longitude/Latitude:
-6.06333/54.1458
Wildcamping
you can stay overnight on the car park besides the road. Open the gate, drive in and close the gate behind you again.

Peak District (Froggatt) - UK

Description
Froggatt is another well known crag in the Peaks. It is mainly known for its superb slab problems (probably best of the country) and lovely views.
Rock
Rocktype:
Gritstone
Number of Routes:
400
Grades:
D-E9
Angle:
vertical/slab
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Eastern Grit by Chris Craggs
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Sheffield
Longitude/Latitude:
-1.6186/53.2938
Wildcamping
you can sleep in the car park although not the most idyllic of places.

Peak District (Roaches) - UK

Description
The roaches are next to Stanage probably the most famous crags in the peaks. Excellent views, perfect climbing on long routes, gritstone - if you visit the peaks you cannot miss the roaches.
Rock
Rocktype:
Granite
Number of Routes:
320
Grades:
M-E8
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Western Grit by Chris Craggs and Alan James
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Macclesfield
Longitude/Latitude:
-1.9931/53.1546
Wildcamping
You can stay overnight on the carpark along the access road.

Peak District (Stanage) - UK

Description
Stanage is probably the most famous crag in the peak district. It stretches over a mile (longest gritstone crag) and reaches up to 20 meters. If you are a fan of gritstone or want to experience what the fuzz is all about, then stanage cannot be missed! Next to the famous trad routes stanage also offers high quality bouldering!
Rock
Rocktype:
Gritstone
Number of Routes:
2000
Grades:
M-E8
Angle:
vertical/slab
Climbing:
Trad/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Eastern Grit by Chris Craggs
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Sheffield
Longitude/Latitude:
-1.6341/53.3428
Wildcamping
Overnighting at the car park is not allowed (although tolerated for 1 night if you can be bothered to be woken by the warden in the morning). There is a campsite close by for those of you who plan to stay a little longer.

Peak District (Windgather) - UK

Description
Windgather is a small, less well known crag in the peaks with rather short climbs (on average 9 meters). Its worth mentioning because its a perfect crag for beginners or for people who would like to practice placing gear.
Rock
Rocktype:
Gritstone
Number of Routes:
100
Grades:
VB-E1
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
all year
Guidebook:
Western Grit by Chris Craggs and Alan James
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Macclesfield
Longitude/Latitude:
-2.00583/53.3017
Wildcamping
Staying on the car park (lay-by) is no problem and quiet at night.

Reiff - UK

Description
One of the gems of Scottish rock climbing. The sea cliffs of Reiff offers some of the best sandstone climbing (clean, rough, hard sea-washed sandstone) in an amazing setting right at the sea. The climbing can be quite bouldery on rather short walls. An ab rope is very useful to get to the different sectors. Furthermore, watch out as some sectors are tidal.
Rock
Rocktype:
Sandstone
Number of Routes:
634
Grades:
D-E7
Angle:
vertical/overhanging
Climbing:
Trad/Bouldering
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Scottish Rock - North by Gary Latter
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Reiff
Longitude/Latitude:
-5.45652/58.0757
Wildcamping
Drive as close to the crag as possible and park in front of a small bridge. There is limited parking available, if you plan to stay overnight ask the locals whether they mind you staying there.

Suidhe Biorach - UK

Description
Nicknamed Costa Del Elgol this sea cliff crag on the Isle of Skye provides some of the best views of the Cuillin Ridge. But not only for the views should this place be visited - The climbing on the magnificent quartz sandstone is technical, well protected and a joy to climb.
Rock
Rocktype:
Sandstone (hard)
Number of Routes:
47
Grades:
S-E7
Angle:
vertical
Climbing:
Trad
Best time to visit:
May-September
Guidebook:
Scottish Rock - North by Gary Latter
Location
Country:
UK
Nearest town:
Elgol
Longitude/Latitude:
-6.10968/57.1357